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© Copyright 2011, Sargent & Greenleaf, Inc.
test procedures (cont.)
2. Lockout Reset Procedure:
Make sure the batteries are good and installed correctly in the
keypad. Make sure the lock cable is properly inserted into the
keypad receptacle. Don’t press any buttons for at least fifteen
minutes, then enter a code, followed by the # sign. If the code
is valid, the lock should open. This procedure will work for any
vintage of 6120 or 6123 lock.
3. Master Code Check Procedure:
When the lock is not in lockout mode (see Procedure 1), the
correct Master Code can be verified by attempting to enter the
programming mode. Enter 74
*
followed by the Master Code and
# 1 * 1 2 3 4 5 6 #. Don’t press any more buttons. The lock will
do one of the following:
A) Emit five short beeps after the first # and 3 short beeps
after the second #, indicating that the code entered is the
correct Master Code.
—OR—
B) Emit a long, continuous tone (sometimes referred to as
the “raspberry” sound or a “brap”) at some point in the
process, indicating that the entered code is not the correct
Master Code.
4. Walk Back Procedure:
This procedure is used to retract the bolt when there is too
much side pressure on the lock bolt or when other factors may
prevent full bolt retraction. It involves repetitive retractions of
the bolt without allowing it to extend again. The first step is to
make sure the safe bolt work is not binding on the lock bolt.
This is accomplished by ensuring that the handle is in the fully
locked position. If there is any travel in the handle, place the
handle in the middle of the travel and enter a valid code into
the lock. This action alone may be enough to allow the lock to
open. The second step is to replace the batteries with a fresh
set of 9-volt alkaline batteries (“Extra Heavy Duty” batteries are
NOT alkaline and will not work). S&G recommends Duracell
®
brand batteries. Fresh batteries will often supply the extra
power necessary to open a lock which is experiencing bolt side
pressure. If neither one of the above tips works, perform the
following steps:
A) If your lock uses the standard, two-battery keypad, remove
the keypad from the door, but keep it plugged into the lock.
Don’t attempt to remove a single-battery keypad.
B) Enter a valid code, making sure the safe handle is in the
fully locked position.
C) After you hear the motor finish its initial run (but before
it extends the bolt again), unplug the wire connector from
the underside of the keypad. If you have a single-battery
keypad, simply remove the battery compartment.
D) See if the safe handle can be turned to the unlocked
position. If not, move the handle back to the fully lock
position and wait ten seconds before proceeding.
E) Plug the wire connector back into the keypad receptacle or
re-install the battery holder of a single-battery keypad, and
repeat the process starting at Step B.
If the safe does not open after ten tries, refer to the next step
in the chart. For spring bolt locks (used on inner compartments
and lightweight safes without boltwork), pushing in on the door
when entering the code and # key may be sufficient to allow the
door to open.
5. Wire Check and Repair Procedure:
The 6120 lock requires four wires from the connector on the
underside of the keypad to the lock for normal operation. One
of the wires provides the signal back from the lock to the LED
and sounder. The lock will operate with this wire broken, but it
will not beep or light the LED. If any other wire is broken, the
lock will not operate until it is repaired. If a break is detected,
or if a tear in the insulation is found, the wire should be
spliced and/or insulated before proceeding. S&G recommends
24-gauge stranded copper wire for these repairs. After the safe
is successfully opened, the lock should be replaced.
Troubleshooting Guide
Models 6120 and 6123—Motorized Electronic Combination Locks
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